Repairing and caring for walking boots

There is a particular kind of satisfaction in pulling on a pair of walking boots that have been looked after properly. The leather is supple, the fabric still sheds a shower, and the soles feel as though they have another hundred miles in them. Neglect them, though, and you will soon know about it: cracked uppers, stiff toes, and a waterproof membrane that gives up the ghost halfway across a boggy moor. The good news is that boot care takes minutes, not hours, and the habits that keep footwear healthy are simple to learn.

Why mud and moisture are the enemies

Mud is more than a cosmetic nuisance. As it dries, it draws moisture out of leather and fabric, leaving them brittle. Grit trapped in the mud acts like sandpaper inside the flex points of the boot, wearing away stitching and lining. Moisture is the other culprit. If you leave damp boots in a hot cupboard or beside a radiator, the heat will warp the sole unit and cause the leather to crack. The goal is not to sterilise your boots, but to remove the worst of the dirt while they are still slightly damp, and then let them dry gently at room temperature.

Cleaning mud off while damp

The best time to clean your boots is as soon as you get home, while the mud is still soft and the leather is still damp. Do not wait until they are caked and dry. Use a stiff-bristled brush — an old nail brush or a dedicated boot brush — to knock off the worst of the mud. Pay attention to the welt (the seam where the upper meets the sole), the lace eyelets, and the tongue. For fabric panels, a softer brush is kinder.

If the mud is stubborn, rinse the boots with cool water. Never use hot water, and never use washing-up liquid or biological detergent, as these strip away the oils and waterproofing treatments. A little clean water and a brush are usually enough. For leather, wipe with a damp cloth and then brush away any residue. If you have been walking through heather or long grass, check for seeds and burrs caught in the laces and lining.

• Do: brush mud off while damp, using cool water only.
• Don't: soak boots in a bucket or use a jet wash.
• Don't: use detergent, bleach, or hot water.

Drying without wrecking the boots

After cleaning, stuff the boots loosely with newspaper or a clean cloth. This helps them hold their shape and draws moisture out from the inside. Change the paper every few hours if the boots are very wet. Leave them in a cool, airy place — a porch or a utility room is ideal. Avoid direct heat from radiators, log burners, or hair dryers. Heat is the single quickest way to ruin a pair of boots: it can delaminate the sole, shrink the leather, and destroy the waterproof membrane. If you need them dry faster, use a fan to move air around them, but keep heat out of the equation. Never dry boots on top of a radiator or in an airing cupboard.

Reproofing fabric and leather

Waterproofing does not last forever. Every few months, or after a particularly wet and muddy season, your boots will need reproofing. Fabric boots usually take a spray-on or sponge-on reproofer designed for synthetic uppers. Clean the boots first, let them dry until just damp, then apply the reproofer evenly, paying attention to the flex points and the toe box. Leather boots need a wax or conditioner. A good wax feeds the leather, keeps it supple, and restores water repellency. Apply a thin layer with a cloth or your fingers, let it soak in, then buff off any excess. Do not over-apply: too much wax can clog the leather's breathability. If your boots have a combined fabric and leather upper, use products suitable for both, or mask off the areas you do not want to treat.

Storage and routine checks

When you are not wearing them, store your boots in a cool, dry place. A boot bag or a simple shelf in a shed is fine, as long as it is not damp. Avoid the garage floor if it gets wet, and never leave boots in a plastic bag, which traps moisture and encourages mould. Check the soles regularly for embedded stones, glass, or thorns. A small stone wedged in the tread can work its way into the midsole and cause a puncture. Replace worn laces before they snap on the hill, and consider swapping the insoles every few months — they absorb sweat and lose their cushioning. If the sole is worn flat or the stitching has come away, a reputable repairer can often resole or restitch boots for a fraction of the cost of a new pair. Well-made boots are worth repairing, and a little care will keep them going for many seasons.